My
guidebook reminds me that Wu Dang Shan is famous for being the birthplace of Tai
Chi and also an important centre of Taoism.
Many of the signs that we encountered along the way refer to the
emporer who was first interested in the rocks here as having cultivated himself
here for over 40 years. Eventually, feeling sufficiently cultivated, he
jumped off one of the more precipitous rocks (There's a picture of it below) and
flew up to the top peak (that's the highest of the one's above. Having
acheived this feat he decided that he was ready to become Emperor proper and
left for the capital.
We didn't have enough time to cultivate ourselves enough to feel
safe doing the same thing, so we climbed to the top instead. I have yet to
go to a Chinese tourist attraction that does not involve several hundred often
very steep steps. Wu Dang Shan is certainly no exception.
This is also the first time I've seen wild monkeys since I went
to Gibraltar when I was five or six years old.
The trip was organised by our ever-attentive university.
The weekend including 8 hour, overnight train journey there and back, hotel for
the night, food for the weekend, entrance and guide came to the excessively
reasonable price of 50 quid; and that's before you take off the university
subsidy.
The
first part of the trip was along a river bank up to a cliff face. We
passed a very large gathering of monkeys who were very happy to let us snap them
whilst we fed them monkey nuts (Why do they call them that?)
The only problem was that it had been raining for three days
solid prior to our arrival and the river was somewhat higher than normal.
Infact, the stepping stones that should have carried us clear of
the water were up to a foot and a half under it. Our guide offered us the
chance to head back or take our shoes and socks off and carry on.
I'm glad we decided to carry on, because as we made our way
through the fast flowing mountain stream, and then up the cliff at the other
end, I began to feel like Indiana Jones. There was even a rope bridge for
the obligatory 'pretending to cut the rope' scene at the end of the second
film. The Harrison Ford feeling was especially intense when we reached to
top and came across a little ruined temple that had all the hall marks of being
the final resting place of the Cup of the last covenant. Joseph of
Arimathea didn't show though, so after taking a few snaps we went down again and
did the whole walking-through-the-river thing the other way.
Continuing
the theme of rather lame film references when I should really be thinking of
rather deeper Chinese cultural references, the next place felt as though we had
been transported to The Goblin City in the film Labyrinth. Anyone who
doubts me look at the first few pictures below and you'll see what I mean.
The
monks here looked suspiciously young and clean shaven. They also enticed
us into the appropriately named "Pillar with Twelve Beams" room"
in order to sell us beautiful mountain views of the region in the shop next
door. The significance of the one pillar, twelve beams thing was, I'm
afraid, entirely lost on me. Mind you, I also think it was lost on the
so-called Monks. Their flashy white robes looked very nice, but I've never
seen a real monk look quite that eager to sell you a scroll with a picture of
eight horses on it before.
The place itself, though, was
charming. We were also slowly getting higher and higher up the mountain
and could now see views of the "Golden Peak" over to the South of the
temple.
The
following day we climbed all the way to the top (having been driven up the first
10,000 meters or so). Rather worryingly, many people decide to opt out of
the chore of climbing up to the top, by being carried to the top by groaning
Chinese men who really don't look that big. This nine kilometer journey,
climbing to the top of the 1612 meter peak, will set you back a lot less than a
tenner if you want to be carried up by someone else. We had lots of offers
but didn't take up any of them. There were also lots of men carrying
assorted building material on bamboo sticks along-side us as we climbed.
Ever one for a challenge I gamely offered to help them up one flight of stairs
in order to see if I could do it or not.
It turned out very quickly I couldn't.
The
weight of the bags was incredible. I couldn't walk a step on the
horizontal, let alone up the hundreds and hundreds of very steep steps that they
were negotiating all the time. These guys get about 70 pence a trip and
can manage three trips a day. They also do it all in the not very
substantial footwear that you see on the left. Suddenly carrying rich Chinese businessmen
up the mountain with a friend didn't seem quite so impossible after all.
After
climbing for the two hours that we were promised would get us to the top, we got
a distant view of the peak still an incredibly long way away from us. We
finally reached the bottom of the top bit nearly three hours after we set
off. We had now climbed as high as the cable car could go. We felt
smug and superior that we hadn't had to use the cable car - but were
nevertheless in need of quite a rest before tackling the rest of the peak.
The
peak itself was very beautiful. The swirling clouds below us made it feel
really quite mystical too. A favourite activity is to bring a lock with
you, lock it shut with your lover onto one of the hand rails at the top of the
mountain and the throw the key down into the clouds. (You can see the
piles of locks on the left here)
This very romantic gesture does
make it a little hazardous to climb up to the top because you are in constant
fear of having a hail of Yale keys being lobbed at you.
We spent
nearly an hour on the very top before making our way down the (very) steep steps
back to the bottom of the top again. Grand gestures over, we gladly took
the cable car back down again.